Dar Leila was a perfect place to stay in Essaouira. Right in the middle of the medina and just minutes away from interesting restaurants, cafes and shops. So lovely just to get lost the first few times walking around knowing that you come to the town walls eventually and can easily find your way back. The riad itself was gorgeous. Homely and filled with everything we needed, even spare travel plugs and a decent wireless speaker for the iPod. Abdaul made the loveliest breakfasts each day (brilliant pancakes) on the terrace and was really helpful in showing us how to get to Carrefour (brush up on your French to give directions to the taxi drivers back! ) where we brought food for one evening meal. Snacks, bread and pastries easily available from stalls right outside the riad. We had some amazing meals out and can recommend the freshly made pasta at Silvestros (event though admittedly it felt a bit odd to come to Morocco and eat Italian food, but the wood-fired pizzas were truly amazing) and the incredible tagines at La Licorne. Sat on the terrace outside 'Mega Loft' one night listening to the live music and wished we'd had time in the trip to eat there too. Definitely just wander round and see what takes your fancy. Loads of little places. Didn't really drink out (wine in restaurants reasonable) but did try the delicious carrot juice on the menu in many of the cafes. Can't fault this place at all. We also went (party of six) to Les Jardins de Villa Maroc. Walk to the Villa Maroc just by the SW corner of the city walls and book there. Price includes minibus out, towels, pool and lovely bbq and salad lunch for about £22. Overall, we really really loved Essouira. If you're looking for a city which has loads of interesting museums and churches etc then this might be quiet for you. However, if you're into people-watching, soaking up the atmosphere and eating some really amazing food then this is the place for you! We are certainly planning on coming back and will be coming back to Dar Leila for sure.